Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

Great writing - I am not into surfing but gave this book a try nonetheless. The superior writing by the author kept me going even through the sometimes pages-long of descriptions of waves and riding these waves across many regions of the world.

Really enjoyed this book, possibly because I learned to surf when my family moved from Kansas to Hawaii, then cut my teeth in the dark caverns of Ocean Beach, SF, later in life. But also because it's extremely well-written and moving. I think it would be an excellent read for surfers and non-surfers alike.

I loved William Finnegan's writing in The New Yorker even before reading this memoire. it is easy to see why the book won a National Book Award. The story is original, honest to a fault and beautifully told. The surf, itself, becomes an ever changing character in the book.

A non surfer girlfriend of mine recommended it. She said she couldn't stop reading it. It made her understand men more. I had also heard about it on NPR. My husband, who was born in the same year as the author and grew up in LA, said it was the best book he ever read. His high school friend, who just came to visit, also brought it as a gift from him. I don't think you can miss with this book

I just finished reading Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life, an excellent book by William Finnegan

A friend recommended it and compared it H is for Hawk.

While both are memoirs, they are very different and in my opinion Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is much better.

Barbarian Days tells the story of Finnegan’s surfing. The details of this life fill in the background, but are not the focus of the story, because this is really a story about waves and surfing and one person’s adventures in search of the repeated, excellent waves.

Finnegan’s continued deprecation of his surfing skills and wave size gets a little annoying.. Finnegan is an excellent surfer, as anyone who has devoted the time and effort to the ocean can tell. His continual minimization of his own skills and his descriptions of double overhead waves as 5 foot surf may mislead the reader from Kansas about the giants that Finnegan repeatedly rides. The untutored may miss the point that when an expert like Finnegan is afraid to go out, the surf is really, really big and really, REALLY dangerous, and that the two are not necessarily correlated.

Finnegan, who wrote the New Yorker profile of Doc Renneker several years ago, knows both the waves and the English language. His prose flows easily and contains facts that will help apprentice surfers perform better and the general reader understand the incredibly complex task of riding a board on top of a moving, changing, challenging wave and the stoke almost any ride can bring to the rider.

While no book can compare to the feel you get riding a wave, Finngan’s book is an enjoyable experience in its own right and reading it will be a great experience when the waves are flat or the ocean is distant.

Finnegan is one of my favorite writers and, frankly, doesn't write a lot. So I was thrilled to get this book. If you're not a surfer it might be too much into the arcane details of our strange obsession but I think Finnegan actually makes it clear why we do the things we do. I am a surfer so it's like candy to me.

Surfed for over 20 years...pretty much the same three or four spot the whole time. Secos, County Line, Malibu, and Rincon. Surfing was a major segment of my life. Never envisaged a life's journey in the manner of that of Bill Finnegan. Unrivaled. Superb read.

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life was at once strange and familiar. Mr. Finnegan's under spoken, yet apt descriptions, pull the reader warmly into the tale. His travels made me realize how similar the old and the new really are, and have inspired my own upcoming move and travels. His writing concerning the waves themselves can become a bit technical, but, as if unable to contain himself, he launches into beautiful prose about them just as quickly. This was a lovely read, and I will read more from Mr. Finnegan.

I'm a senior undergrad majoring in English Literature, and this book -- along with a few dreamlike mornings of NC surf -- has thrusted me back into my lost rhythm of reading and writing. The pages fly by, except in the moments when you have to put the book down, shimmy into a wetsuit, and paddle out past the break yourself, confronting the visions of the author, which are deeply reflected upon in a snappy yet smooth way, undoubtedly acquired from years spent working as a journalist and magazine writer. Masterful prose. An excellent memoir, and a breathtaking, inspiring life. Worth re-reading, even.

This journal has everything you want to know about surfing all around the world. In fact it was so detailed regarding surfing that it lost me sometimes. The real bonus for me is that this journal is also an excellent story of a school age boy experiencing racism in Hawaii to working out his education choices, job choices, romantic life and finally reconciliation with parents. A very articulate journey from boyhood to middle age to early 60's in the 20th and 21st century in America.

Thoroughly enjoyed the book, your insight and writing style. I was an east coast slop surfer for years , into my forties but didn't start young and was never that good. I do believe a nature loving, nonsurfer would enjoy.
I've been addicted to whitewater kayaking since early teens in northern Virginia... very similar. I've also spent a lot of time sailing and diving... soloed a Piper Cub on grass strip and still love to mountain bike.
Jealous of all the traveling you pulled off.
Turned 60 yrs. old in August... sucks, eating ibuprofen all the time.
Thanks for the sweet book.

I haven't finished yet, but have thoroughly enjoyed Barbarian Days so far. Having grown up in the 60s and surfing my whole life, I will tell you it's the real deal - a great memoir which has brought back to life so many similar events, feelings, and impressions from a past long since pushed out of my mind and unrecorded. Recommended for everyone - not just old, nostalgic, ex-beach rats but also those who want to explore coming of age in a subculture shrouded with popular myth and hypermarketing.

Read it, for a cerebral in depth adventure and escape through life challenging wave breaks around the world. Perfect read for those of us who will sacrifice all comforts to barbarian travel to explore. It is especially poignant in this time of war, constrained borders, and man's havoc with nature and tribal life's existence.
The ocean's power prevails.

WOW Just as promised...used and seems new. Best book vendor ever.
Can not get over how quick delivery was.
Thank you, thank you.
Love this book which took me back to simpler times in late '60s Hawaii and being an early teen.
Innocent, reckless times. Bittersweet, as I lived it too.

Passionate and beautiful. Overindulgent and too long at times. Loses momentum. At times, I felt like I was in the line.up waiting a long time for the next wave. Overall, there was too much wave talk, which didn't always carry. I have traced the same beaches and adventures during the same years. I appreciate his spirit. Massive honesty in many places. Consistency is his challenge,. He knows.

I have no interest in surfing but I considered buying the book for a friend who does. Then I saw the book won a Pulitzer and I got curious. It's great! Fascinating take on a life obsessed with surfing --- and writing --- and the result is transcendent. I'm already contemplating who I can give this book to as a gift --- my surfer friend, obviously, but also others whose souls may crave living a life like that described in this book. Brilliant.

When I picked this book, my knowledge of surfing was equal to nothing. In fact I never had seen a surf board from close. What a wonderful world I was introduced to! I will never surf, but have developed a great deal of respect for serious surfers thanks to this book. William Finnegan is an excellent writer and kept my interest on this book until the very last page.

This book was recommended by a friend. I have never surfed but have always been fascinated by the power of the wave. I love the ocean but enjoy it from dry land! Reading this book took me all over the world to areas I would never dream of visiting and I felt like I was there. His time in San Francisco The author and I are the same age and it was so interesting to read how he grew up as compared to me. Opposite coasts and so different lives yet both with a love of the Ocean... I missed this book when I was finished!

I felt a touch of envy reading this modern Finnegans wave. The places he rode waves are a kind of who's who of surf spots.
This book undoubtedly tops my summer reading. I was with him all the way as he was held down for endless seconds and dragged over the rocks. He captures the surfing obsession going way beyond Pattersons Surfing, Its Thrill and Technique. It is of course a mere shadow of what really goes on deep inside of surfing, but who can really describe this 4 dimensional adventure. The best surfing narrative I have ever read.

pulitzer prize winning author and new yorker columnist weaves spell binding narrative of his prolonged adolescence chasing waves around the world, teaching in africa, adventuring. live vicariously through this exotic and exciting memoir! a must have for literary surfers.

Thank you William Finnegan for such a story, such an account, so well written, so personal. And such an adventure you have taken me on, times and places I shared with you but missed you by a year or more, here and there. It was almost lonely, yet full of love and companionship throughout. It was a portrait of a young man as a surfer... and much more. Others have said slow in parts... but it was good, like waiting for the next set, feet dangling down, board rocking to and fro, water slapping the nose taking it all in... feeling... You made it!

William Finnegan paints of masterful picture, honest and authentic, of a life well-lived. Non-surfers and surfers alike will appreciate the narrative and passion with which he tells of challenging himself, questioning himself, and believing in himself. His tale is dotted with scattered glimpses into a private world as a journalist -- forming a complete picture of a life built around risk and reward -- and begs the reader to search his own life for something about which he may feel a similar passion.

As a life long surfer, my earliest memories evolve around being in the ocean with my dad and brothers on their surfboards, reading about the authors life struck a chord. I was not aware of Mr Finnegans literary pedigree when I purchased the book so I was caught off guard by the complexity of structure and vocabulary at some points. I am a fan of biographical novels and adventure writing. I found the book to be a good read period. With the addition of surfing as a main theme I gave it the coveted fifth star.

I learned a lot about surfing. The descriptions are beautiful but if you're not a surfer I felt some passages went on and on about the waves over and over. I had to skim them. It's s surfing life for sure.

Great book that gave great insight into the adventures that happen when you take the road less traveled. I'd read and will read it again I enjoyed it so much. Well written and keeps the interest high through out the entire read.

Beautifully written memoir. Evocative of growing up in the 1960s and 1970s, without romanticism. I have never surfed and never will, but I loved this. Also made me want to travel in the old way again, figuring it out asking the way, open to each place and not pre booked with AirBnB.

An extaordinary surfing memoir. It has taken more than 50 years (from the start of the modern surfing era) to have one written - I wonder if it will ever be equalled. A test of memoir is how well does the author deal with times and places you the reader you know well. He spends part of the book describing surfing at Kirra in the 70's - something I am familiar with. He nails it. He tells an anecdote of Michael Peterson mistaking him for someone else and how MP's subsequent nodding at him moves him several rungs up the Kirra hierarchy. Great story. A truly extaordinary surfing life lived to the max by someone who happens to be a very fine writer.

I thoroughly enjoyed Finnegan's A Surfing Life. I recommend it. But oddly (perhaps?) I'm not sure who I recommend it to. I'm not a surfer but was thrilled by, among other things, the breadth and depth of vision the author shares of humans of the sea. And of the world, time, relationships, etc.

I liked the portraits of the people that moved in and out of the author's life, and the description of surfing before surfing was cool. I also appreciate the author showing glimpses of his own skill, but never bragging about it.

I so enjoyed this book. It gives great insights into the "surfer" mindset as well as a quite well written insight into the experiences of the author over many years of following his passion for surfing.

Growing up in southern California and surfing from late elementary school through post-college, surfing was always a magical sport. The sun, the water, the waves, the camaraderie of surfers - Finnegan is able to capture the thrill and passion of surfing in this very readable book. If you don't surf, this book should give you a good idea what it is like to be a surfer. If you do or did surf, Finnegan's book puts you back into those experiences and leaves you with the wish you were out there in the waves again.

Being a literate surfer I've never been content with the limitations of most surf writing.then, like Brian Wilson in surf music, here comes William Finnegan. If you've traveled you'll appreciate what he has accomplished bu if you've never surfed or traveled to surf you will still still be able to experience this aquatic On the Road, such is the writer's gift.i daresay you'll be thinking of getting a board and paddling out.Beware, you may not return!

Captured times and places, many of which I know, and an ethos that many of my contemporaries shared. The dark side of the Beach Boys along with the lyrical delirium of the surfing culture. A book worth reading by anyone who wants to understand or remember this remarkable period.

I thoroughly enjoyed this book. Finnegan is a strong writer and the book had any memorable sections about surfing, friendship, family and life priorities. Having traveled all over the world myself, and having enjoyed a one-week surf camp (which doesn't make me a surfer!) I enjoyed the chance to escape via this book. So much fun! I suspect this book may get as popular as "Boys in the Boat" if it isn't already.

I enjoyed growing up near the Gulf of Mexico and playing in the waves as a child. Ever since then, I have loved the ocean and watching big waves safely from shore. Even though I never pursued it, surfing has intrigued me all my life and this book brings it all home. Traveling abroad in the sixties, surf culture, even southern Cali culture...the author writes so eloquently, every page is a joy to read. I highly recommend this book.

Loved it! Highly recommend it to anyone who loves surfing, adventure and living large. Finnegan's description of riding powerful and dangerous waves is spot on and kept me on the edge of my seat (when I wasn't surfing).

Surfing for me is gut feeling, it just feels right. However, this book goes deep into the what, why and ingredients of surfing. Thrilling but also a little sad as you wish for a chance to start life over with one of these breaks as a playground. A great mixture of surf, people, passions and finding joy in just about anything - loved this book.

For any surfer that has dreamed the life of Finnegan and his travels this book is the pinnacle of surf fantasy. For those of us who think we have surfed around the world Finnegan has made us all envious. The self deprecating and self doubt combined with the real fear and panic we've all had in the water couldn't have been told more eloquently and real to the core. A charmed life that he has paid the price for with too many near death experiences. I am the same age and he has told the story of our lives or at least the story of our life fantasies. Bravo and lets keep catching waves until we can't get stand up any more. Recommended to all but especially to 60 yr old surfers.

Beautifully written, engaging and fun to read. I went to high school in Florida and surfed the U.S.East Coast for about 4 years and I can tell you, whether you're a current surfer, former surfer or even not interested in surfing in the slightest, you'll love reading this book.

Well-written life-long adventure. As a middle-aged woman attempting to surf (longboard), I thought the author articulated some of the indescribeable feelings one experiences in the water well and portrayed surfing accurately - the uniqueness of each wave, the long waiting for a wave, the inescapable battering one takes, etc.