The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest

It has been great to read the different accounts from different perspectives of this tragic event. After reading ITA, it always struck me as strange that JK was critical of AB not using oxygen when at the very least it was a non issue and may have actually saved others. Same with the "early descent" that absolutely saved lives. Maybe he was a jerk, but he no doubt acted heroically. Too bad more of the climbers and Sherpas resting at camp 4 were unable or unwilling to assist with ABs rescue attempts.

Really good read. Gives you a non professional journalist insight as to what may have taken place. Into Thin Air is much more of a (one sided) story but still entertaining. Enjoyed the CLIMB much more!

This is the story about the 1996 Everest tragedy told from the perspective of Anatoli Boukreev, who was one of the guides on the ill-fated Mountain Madness expedition. It is written almost as a rebuttal to the perceived criticism by Jon Krakauer (Into Thin Air) of Boukreev's actions on that ill-fated Everest climb.

This is a poorly written account that is oftentimes confusing. It has none of the clarity of prose found in Krakauer's "Into Thin Air". It is, however, an important chronicle from someone who was there on Everest, and who had a pivotal role in the tragic events. Boukreev provides an insider's view of the Mountain Madness expedition itself and of the preparations which go into such a journey. It is packed with many interesting details which will delight Everest junkies.

Whether Boukreev's actions on the mountain were irresponsible, in that he did not use supplementary oxygen to summit and immediately returned to camp after reaching the summit, rather than remain with the expedition's clients, or whether he was just following the orders of the expedition leader, Scott Fisher, who himself died on Everest, is an issue which will long be debated in mountaineering circles. There is no doubt, however, that Boukreev did, in fact, single handedly rescue three of the climbers during a raging blizzard; climbers who without his intervention would have died. Given the extreme weather conditions, his foray up the mountain to rescue climbers is nothing less than heroic.

Boukreev's is an important voice in the Everest annals, more so now that his voice has been silenced. On Christmas day, 1997, Boukreev died in an avalanche on Annapurna. RIP.

Great account from an accomplished (and awarded for his heroic, life-saving efforts in the 1996 Everest expedition) mountaineer who was there, did it and shares his experience. Unjustly maligned in Krakauer's book, "Into Thin Air" (and the mountaineering article that preceded this book) as a guide who abandoned others to seek refuge in the lower Camp, the real story is told. Krakaeur in his book, "Into Thin Air," fails to even mention the fact that Boukreev was awarded in 1997 with the prestigious David A. Sowles Memorial Award by American Alpine Club for his successful rescue efforts in the 1996 Everest expedition (while Krakaeur, during these events, was passed out in his tent at the lower Camp). The Sowles award recognizes people "who have distinguished themselves, with unselfish devotion at personal risk or sacrifice of a major objective, in going to the assistance of fellow climbers imperiled in the mountains." This highly prestigious award is not given lightly and never to guides who are derelict in their duties (as Krakaeur wrongly asserts of Boukreev). The award Boukreev received is the American Alpine Club's highest award for valor in recognition of his role in rescuing climbers in the 1996 Everest disaster. As a person who has successfully climbed both Mt. Whitney (California's highest mountain) and Mt. Shasta (a more traditional and technical mountaineering climb) I am not even remotely close to the caliber of someone like the now-deceased Anatoli Boukreev. However, his account of the technical and dynamic aspects of the Everest climb is much more detailed and believable than Krakaeur's lame post hoc assertions.

Once you finish reading this book, one will find the tears forming in their eyes, when you already know this humble, capable, reasonably poor, Kazaque was dead one year later (in 1997), after being killed by ana avalanche, while in one of "his" beloved mountains.

The book is very well written and researched. It is NOT a defense of Anatoli. It is a history narrated according to Anatoli's point of view! It is a subtle difference, but it IS different..

As for the Krakauer/Anatoli controversy, there is nothing of that in this book (only a chapter added in recent edition, called especifically a response to Krakauer. But in the original edition, there is absolutely nothing attacking Krakauer.

Some thing must be made clear:

a. Rob Hall and Scott Fisher were both responsible for the tragedy, because both of them desperately wanted to get clients to summit, to get good publicity (both Krakauer and Snayd Pittman were connected to the press and actually writing about the expedition). Both Hall and Fisher allowed their clients, without any consideration to the worsening weather, to continue climbing to the summit well beyond some decent time schedule.

b. Since the people who could stop the cimbler of going uphill, oblivious to any reason about the time to go back (again, responsibility of Hall and Fisher), the framework for the tragedy was done. Who made what after that is almost a moot point.

c. That said, some considerations about Anatoli:

1. The guy could barely speak English, so there was a lot of "lost in translation" stuff between him and the Mountain Madness clients.
2. No Mountain Madness clients were killed (thanks not only to Anatoli, but also in great part do Neil Beidleman).
3. Anatoli had absolutely NOTHING to do with Scott Fisher going up and down the hill during the days previous to the summit attemto, carrying clients or injured people all the time, making the legend of the "indefatigable Scott" to live.
4. Anatoli asked Fisher for permission to climb down ahead of the clients.
5. The Mountain Madness clients were in general terms in excellent physical conditions, and most of them did not care to being treated like novice or unexperienced climbers. Most of them got along well with Anatoli. The complaint were most of them connected to his lack of English language skills.
6. As for him summiting alone, ahead of the people, GOSH! The guy HAD to go ain front, because he had to fix the ropes for the Hillary Step.

And, as for the writer not making adequate research, you must be joking.

A great different perspective from the 1996 climbing season. I enjoyed the re-telling of the story, but also, seeing the interesting way that stories can get twisted on the mountain. The tone does seem a bit combative, but this is expected considering that Into Thin Air is basically a slam on Boukreev's character/judgement.

I have never climbed a mountain, and I never will, but when I have hard times I like to read about people who have a tougher time of it than I do. The Climb fits the bill. What suffering!

The question: Why? Why would anyone pay a $65K fee to join an expedition like the ones that tackled Everest in 1996? The $65K is just to join. Personal expenses like air fare, the cost of equipment, and the time commitment come on top of the fee. For all this you become part of a group of people you do not know and may not like to risk life and limb to climb and climb and climb into ever harsher and more difficult conditions and ultimately to put your life at direct risk. For what?

This is a fine book; Into Thin Air is a fine book. What is amazing and very entertaining about both of these books is to behold and consider the folly of this adventure in all its glory.

I reserve five-star reviews for the best of the best. Do not take the four-star rating as a criticism. This is a very well written story.

G. Weston DeWalt combines direct (translated and untranslated) recounts from mountaineering legend Anatoli Boukreev as well as information from any documents pertaining to the 1996 expedition on Everest. It's factual and direct and dramatic due to the experiences, not because the writing made it so. It provides as clear a picture as possible of what Anatoli experienced and directly addresses the factual inaccuracies of Krakauer's "Into Thin Air." Anatoli is an incredibly strong and courageous climber who saved three lives but remained haunted by the ones he couldn't. The stories of those who couldn't or wouldn't help is heartbreaking. This book provides a clear picture of what kinds of problems the commercialization of challenging expeditions has brought and how poor decisions can be made at altitudes too high to provide adequate oxygen. Overall, it was incredibly fascinating to read the first hand experience of such a uniquely capable individual faced with staggering challenges.

I have never climbed a mountain, and I never will, but when I have hard times I like to read about people who have a tougher time of it than I do. The Climb fits the bill. What suffering!

The question: Why? Why would anyone pay a $65K fee to join an expedition like the ones that tackled Everest in 1996? The $65K is just to join. Personal expenses like air fare, the cost of equipment, and the time commitment come on top of the fee. For all this you become part of a group of people you do not know and may not like to risk life and limb to climb and climb and climb into ever harsher and more difficult conditions and ultimately to put your life at direct risk. For what?

This is a fine book; Into Thin Air is a fine book. What is amazing and very entertaining about both of these books is to behold and consider the folly of this adventure in all its glory.

I reserve five-star reviews for the best of the best. Do not take the four-star rating as a criticism. This is a very well written story.

G. Weston DeWalt combines direct (translated and untranslated) recounts from mountaineering legend Anatoli Boukreev as well as information from any documents pertaining to the 1996 expedition on Everest. It's factual and direct and dramatic due to the experiences, not because the writing made it so. It provides as clear a picture as possible of what Anatoli experienced and directly addresses the factual inaccuracies of Krakauer's "Into Thin Air." Anatoli is an incredibly strong and courageous climber who saved three lives but remained haunted by the ones he couldn't. The stories of those who couldn't or wouldn't help is heartbreaking. This book provides a clear picture of what kinds of problems the commercialization of challenging expeditions has brought and how poor decisions can be made at altitudes too high to provide adequate oxygen. Overall, it was incredibly fascinating to read the first hand experience of such a uniquely capable individual faced with staggering challenges.

Forget Krakheads into thin air criticism of Anotoli Boukreev, this is the true story of how those folks died on Everest in 1996, great climbers hall and fisher with zero management skills caused the deaths of those on the mountain, Boukreev saved 4 lives while Krakauer layed in his tent like the loser he is!!!!

I believe it's full of inaccuracies designed to support Anatoli Boukreev's version of what took place on Everest in 1996. Don't mean to be too hard on him, though, because after reading many accounts, it's clear that there's plenty of blame to go around.

Loved this book! It was authentic and from the point of view that only someone who truly understands what it takes to survive high altitude could have given. We live in a society that seems to always need a scapegoat or a person to blame when nature decides to take over. There are times when no one is to blame but bad luck and over ambition, a common trait of humanity. Sad that some writers ignore this for the sake of theater during their accounts of the tragedy. I would recommend this to anyone who loves the mountains, but also understands to respect nature and what it is capable of.

The most comprehensive and definitive look at the 1996 disaster. I understand why Krakauer feels the need to attack this account, it is bleak, honest and not cinematic and also leaves the blame for the deaths of many on their own heads. Anatoli saved many but not all and the AC team suffered great losses because they didn't have their own Anatoli.

Book met my expectations. I've read "into thin air" and this one looks more realistic. It shows some of the miseries of humans regardless of their environment, position and wealth. On the other hand is a song to bravery and a reminder of how fragile we are facing Mother Nature.

This is an absolute must-read for Everest fans and especially for anyone who's read Krakauer's Into Thin Air. Using Bourkreev's own narrative and debriefing interviews of Everest '96 survivors, it makes a completely convincing case for Boukreev as the hero of the disaster. It leaves me shaking my head, dismayed at how Krakauer could have gotten it so wrong. It leaves me thinking Boukreev was the greatest mountain climber alive, until buried in an avalance on Annapura a year later. It also sheds light on the clouded judgement of Fisher and Hall (esp. the former), the financial pressures Fisher was under, and the questionable behaviour of some of the sherpas. Boukreev is my new hero!

Very good but stuffy and a bit pretentious. Boukareev is not superman but clearly thinks he is. H left the Japanese woman to die because he was tired. That isn't how superman works. He is responsible for her death and climbing down early doesn't make him look good. They all would have made it back to camp if he had done his job.

The story is gripping and emotional. I would give Boukreev at least a 4 star rating except for his writer. DeFault is one of the crappiest authors I have ever had to read. He constantly switchback and forth from third person to first person with no apparent Transylvania. It completely throws me out of the narrative. Here we are reading about what Boukreev is doing in the third person and in th next sentence it becomes what "I" did. Also the bickering with Jon Krakour was low and childish. It would have been much better to just tell Boukreev's story and leave the tattle telling to other forums.

John Krakauer's "Into Thin Air" was a fascinating account of the ill-fated attempt to climb Mt. Everest in 1996 which led to the deaths of five climbers during a blizzard on the mountain.Krakauer criticizes Anatoli Boukreev,one of the expedition guides,for descending during the storm and not doing more to help the expedition's clients.In "The Climb" Boukreev,acknowledged by his peers as one of the greatest high-altitude climbers,gives his own account of what happened.For anyone who enjoyed "Into Thin Air","The Climb" is a must-read.It is a riveting description of the life-threatening risks that high-paying clients are willing to take just to say they stood on the summit of Everest.It is also the story of the critical decisions guides must make when trying to balance the clients desire to reach the summit against the guides responsibility to bring everyone down alive.Boukreev,when no one else could or would,ascended into the teeth of the storm,at great risk to his own life,to bring three of his clients back down alive.A captivating story!

A climber's perspective on the worst Everest disaster. The disaster was also written about in the very imperfect "Into Thin Air". The author of "Into Thin Air" huddled in his tent while there were people to be saved on Everest. In contrast, the author of this book saved people at the risk of his own life.

The true story of what happened in the tragic accident and deaths resulting from a storm on top of everest in 1995. as compared to the book "Everest" by jon krakuer. Krakuer was a selfish sob who helped contribute to the tragedy. His book was his excuse and justifaction . The climb co written by anatoli bourekov , shows by contrast who helped and who didn't. Bourekov saved many lives while krauker ran fast and went to sleep. Read the climb. I read both books several times and feel that I got the picture. Do not see the movie. It doesnt tell the whole truth. Friends of mine who only read everest took krakuer's side. Too bad. A must read the climb!!!!!!

A believable account of the 1996 tragedy on Mt Everest. Unlike that other book...Into Thin Air, this narration is without any personal vendetta. Anatoli Boukreev was forced to write this book to clear his maligned name, which he did as easily as he would climb Everest without supplemental oxygen. Anatoli was one of the greatest climbers known and his indomitable spirit and triumph in the midst of such colossal tragedy reflects clearly in this narration. A must read if you have only read the other book.

I teach a nonfiction literature class. We read Into Thin Air, so I read this book hoping I could offer some perspective. I have never read such a clunky book. The writing is disjointed and lacks consistency. There is a point in the book where an entire chapter is written entirely in a questions/answer format with some of the answers then explained by the author because the answer is so clunky and unclear that is necessitates an explanation. Why use those answers that need clarification? I found myself asking why I was reading it. It lacked any suspense or build up, and I found it to go on and on about obtaining oxygen bottles that had little relevance to the story other than to draw it out. I will say that I am glad I read it just to figure out why Anatoli had a chip on his shoulder about Into Thin Air but there is really nothing else I am thankful for except to say that I am done with it now and will never read it again.

Having read 'Into Thin Air', I wanted to hear the other side, from someone who was actually on Scott Fisher's team, and personally involved in the rescue effort. I was not disappointed. Whereas Jon Krakauer portrayed himself as an elitist know-it-all, despite having no 8,000m experience, (& hiding away in his tent whilst the tragedy unfolded), Anatoli Boukreev spoke as someone very comfortable in extreme altitudes. He felt most comfortable in the mountains, he knew Everest, and was very aware of his capabilities as a mountaineer. He didn't pass blame onto others, but spoke as someone haunted by what he'd experienced, and burdened by not being able to save his friend and colleague, Scott Fisher. Only he and Scott were privy to certain conversations, to claim otherwise seems pure speculation. His explanation as to why he climbed without oxygen made sense, and seemed quite justifiable- once your oxygen is gone you're in trouble, but if you've climbed without it, then that's your backup. I truly felt for Anatoli, who really was the hero in this tragedy, not the villain, and should be remembered as such. The same cannot be said for Jon Krakauer, who later tried to block Anatoli from receiving a prestigious American mountaineering award. One wonders if this was motivated by jealousy, or an attempt to cover a guilty conscience...

This book totally lacks the veracity, in the form of interviews with other members of the teams and clients that 'Into Thin Air" supplies. It also
shows direct conflict with recorded interviews with members of the teams and clients. If you read 'Into Thin Air' and the Addenedum at the end of the book, you would have also read the ensuing difficulties with the truthfullness between the two authors. Anatoli (or the writer) changed his story over and over throughout interviews with people. The writer chose the face of Anatoli best suited to make him look like a professional and a hero, using his accomplishments again and again. However, in the end, it looks to be a total failure of communication between what Fischer and what Anatoli perceived, and the writer was clear in what Anatoli perceived himself to be - a hero....someone who would come after and rescue others if necessary...not someone who would guide and hold hands.. Krakauer doesn't think Anatoli was a villian; however, he doesn't believe him to be a hero.